Dave 44, Sunday, November 4, Perry Lake, near Topeka Kansas, 8858 miles, 1135 to DC

Although I hated to break the stride of the trip and spend the night in the motel, it was a wise choice. Donner certainly appreciated it. Then again, we really had no choice since the one campground that I knew in Goodland Kansas was closed for the season. Thank goodness for Motel 6. Right off the highway and all the basics any weary tent camper would appreciate. And only $69, a few dollars more than some premium campsites today.

The 345-mile drive to the Topeka area was actually quite pleasant. Interstate 70 from Denver eastward is a straight shot. And driving through Kansas is actually quite a contrast to many other drives. The rest stops are quite nice, and marked well in advance so you can plan, there are a sufficient number of services at occasional exits, and the scenery, albeit agricultural farmland for the most part, is quite pleading. I have taken this route three or four times already and do not remember that it was so pleasant.

Our goal for the night was to reach Perry Kake, just north of Topeka, where Erde and I spent a memorable evening back in 2014, the only campers in the park and perhaps on the lake. That may be because we actually couldn't find the campground, and bivouacked in a lovely spot right on the lake that I think was supposed to be a picnic area.

As I got closer to Topeka, I checked the weather for tomorrow and there is a 100% chance of rain in the morning just about the time we will be getting up. I debated whether to for go camping out tonight because of the rain tomorrow and checked the availability of a room in a nearby Motel 6. But then I tossed aside my plans to spend the evening in the motel by choosing the more difficult path, which is what I'm generally disposed to do, so we headed to Perry Lake, hoping to find the camp this time since we still have some daylight with us.

Both Garmin and Google Maps directed me into the same area that I drove into four years ago and I still couldn't find the park. The first sign told me that I was entering the park. Then, 2 miles up the winding park road, without having seen any signs of a campground, another side announced – you are now leaving the park. I drove on and passed the same bivouac spot where Erde and I camped alone four years ago and saw that that spot was obliterated over for some reason. So, we drove on into the park or whatever it is we are in.

Just as the sun set I came to a wonderful verdant peninsula with a huge picnic pavilion. Since there was no sign of any civilian life anywhere in any direction, I parked the Defender right next to the pavilion, and set up camp. This way, when the rain does come, I will have the pavilion to flee to, to help me break camp in a way so that nothing gets wet, including Donner.

The setting of this site is absolutely idyllic. Perry Lake, a reservoir actually, managed by the Army Corps of Engineers, surrounds us in about 260°. There are no sounds whatsoever. It is total silence here, except for a few ducks who happened by. Right now, millions and millions of stars are shining brightly above us, despite Topeka's presence only 20 miles or so to the south. Around the lake on the other side I can see only a dozen lights. We are completely alone here and have the entire park to ourselves. Only one vehicle passed through the park in the three hours we have been here so far, and I don't expect anyone will be visiting for the rest of the night. If I wanted to create a setting for the last night of this trip as a memorable one, this is precisely the setting I would describe. To get a feeling for where we are, I am showing the geographical coordinates below.

Tomorrow, I hope the break camp before the rains come and head to Indiana, where after 45 days, we will finally close the loop on this trip. That is, if all goes well. And Tuesday, I hope to have lunch somewhere off interstate 70 with my ex-wife, Connie, who lives not far from Indianapolis.

Ed and Donner from lovely, peaceful, empty Perry Lake in Kansas.